It’s not Dawn Patrol, but it’s still early enough to get the Early Bird Special for parking- 3 bucks. I usually park on the beach side so I can prop my board on The Wall and at least think there might be some sort of energy through the ages coursing through the bricks and mortar.
The water is warm. I’m in trunks and a 2 mil. top as I paddle out into the small surf. Sitting in the line up the anxieties of land slowly seep away. Sam going off to Iowa for college, Henry starting high school, all the other boys stating new schools all weigh heavily on the land.
I’m riding my 9′-6″ Lance Carson which I got used many years ago. It reportedly belonged to Clark Gable’s only son. The board was one of the few items I saved from the 1993 Malibu fires. As all my friends know my Ironman comics #’s 1-10 weren’t quite as lucky. The surf is small but I manage to get a few nice waves to myself. The board feels heavy under my arm as I walk back to my car with a big dopey smile on my face.
Back in the parking lot I prop my board back up against The Wall. A guy in a van pulls in next to me. A little grom pops out the back. The guy asks me how the waves were and I say, “I had fun.” I ask him if he wants my parking permit and he says, “Thanks for spreading the wealth.”